Johnny Dawes

  "What you learn helps you to find out who you are. The rock will show you exactly in what way you are not being you." --Johnny Dawes (via archclimbingwall)

Saturday Cartoon

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The inspiration for all that deep groin release in class this week was this post from Anna Karkovska McGlew at fleshcontext.

"...this is an active groin release, not a passive one. It involves a strap, so go get one (the longer the better; if not, you might need to connect two straps to make a long one). The video will show you how to loop the strap around your feet, shins and thighs. Notice that the heels are not together in this variation, only the toes and the balls of the feet are touching, the heels never touch. Once you get there, anchor your upper arm bones against the floor. As you pull on the tails of the strap, actively press the balls of the feet into each other and resist the heels away from each other (same idea as above). At the same time, lift your heels away from the floor, as if someone is prodding the outer heels and the outer edges of the feet up from underneath. By this time, you will probably feel a stretch from the pubic bone through the upper inner thigh. Don't forget to breathe and keep space between the upper and lower jaw. Also, your buttocks will be working, but don't confuse working with overworking and gripping. If you feel like you are gripping, think of broadening the buttocks away from the sacrum and lengthening the center of the buttocks away from the top of the pelvis in the back. Finally, check once or twice to see that the heels are evenly lifting away from the floor. Often one will be higher than the other, as in the upright version--you  might also be able to discern this from the tone of your buttocks against the floor/mat..."

It's been helping me with my hip movements in overhang climbs too.

(image found here)

Catherine Destivelle

My gift for you today.

Jam packed with fascinating movement! The climbing prowess of Catherine Destivelle (and her short shorts, love them!) and the excellent textile moves of the Dogon tribespeople. Oh and the goodluck music. Brilliant.

If exercise was good for Charles Darwin, it's good for all of us.

"...exercise is not purely physical, as if we might carve off the flesh, leaving the spirit behind. And this is a crucial philosophical message: of wholeness. The human condition involves a continual to-and-fro between the body and the mind. In fact, the nouns make these aspects of self seem more divided than they are. Thinking is embodied, and acting is mindful. We are not a ghost in a machine, to use philosopher Gilbert Ryle's phrase: we are bodies, and these bodies are conscious...

...For example, swimming can evoke the sublime, and gesture at the precariousness of human life. As the ancient Greek poets remind us, sprinting can prompt pride: not simply in fast legs or fit lungs, but in the commitment to striving before mortality claims us. Regular jogging can promote consistency of character, and keep us from losing the plot. Rock climbing can encourage humility and caution: attention to our flaws, and to the subtle details of rock or wall. This state-of-mind then allows "flow" to arise: we feel free, timeless, as we skilfully negotiate a challenging task. Ballet and karate can turn pain into a curious pleasure – we choose bruised ribs and aching toes over a life of anaesthetised comfort.

The point is not that we have to be Olympians, tracking personal bests with tailored dawn training schedules. We need not be the fastest, strongest or most agile. The point is that exercise can be a commitment to wholeness; to a life enriched and enhanced by physical and mental striving. Darwin was no professional athlete: but he knew about fitness and flourishing."

LOVE this article from Damon Young at The Guardian.
Click HERE to read it in full.

I Believe I can Fly

I Believe I can Fly ( flight of the frenchies). Trailer from sebastien montaz-rosset on Vimeo.
Again, because it's INSANE and they adrenaline funkiness of it appeals to me...

Tom Frost, Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard in bivy sacks in the black cave during the first ascent of El Capitan, Yosemite, 1964.

Click here for more El Capitan history.

Rock Climbing

I am an enthusiastic (novice) climber and it is brilliant for so many reasons.
These are the main benefits for me...

1. Upper body 'pulling' strength. This is completely lacking in yoga but I get my fix here. Helps my hand balancing skills and shoulder health tremendously.
2. Being present. You have no choice but to be in the moment with this stuff, especially when up high. When i'm focused on exactly what i'm doing as i'm doing it i know i'll be safe. This being present stuff is also a mighy fine trick for beating fear with a stick! 
3. Climbing is a movement puzzle. It requires great body awareness and movement intelligence, again in a very different way to the yoga, besides the obvious physical stuff involved.

I highly recommend giving it ago!!!

The downside (for me anyhow) is it always ruins my manicure. You can't have it all huh... 

(image of Natures rock climbers...they certainly don't look like they have the fear! from erinconsidine via keelsterkeel)

Beverly Johnson

Beverly Johnson, one of the first female climbers of El Capitan.

Natures rock climbers...they certainly don't have the fear!
from erinconsidine via keelsterkeel